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City Love: Chiang Mai

One day Di and I were walking around one of my favorite cities, Lisbon. I was full of joy and excited to be exploring such a cool place. I got the same feeling over and over again in other cities too. And when I realized it, I was struck. It was kind of o special moment. I really like cities. In fact, I love'm!

I don't know many people that share this feeling, the opposite is far more popular. Way too often we listen others expressing their anger and frustration towards their urban surroundings. But I know I'm not alone.

I guess it's because I'm a puzzle solver. Could also be my addiction to SimCity games or the other may around. In any case, I really like to figure out how stuff works, how systems are designed and how to tweak and modify them. That's why I choose to and love to be a software engineer. Cities are exactly that, a wonderfully complex puzzle. The way I see it, cities tries to be the best place as possible for people to live close to each other in community and fulfill some kind of national goal. What sets it apart is that we live in it. We, people, are part of the puzzle. We build them to ourselves after all.

We've spent a few days in Chiang Mai, the biggest and most important city on the north of Thailand. It left a strong positive impression on me. I was constantly observing how they solved the city puzzle. Their solution was ancient and fascinating. This is the start of my personal series of posts dedicated to the coolest cities we visit called "City Love".

The city was planned and constructed on the fertile banks of the river Ping. This made sure that the needs of mobility, sanitation, clean water and food were readily available.
Ancient city planning


It is on a valley surrounded by mountains on the border of Burma, Laos and China. It was naturally a popular commercial route, were merchants and commerce flourished, different cultures mixed, technology and knowledge spread. People gathered.

Back in the day, war and conflict were common so a wall and moat were built to protect the royals, bureaucrats, temples and the rich. Clearly a lot of thought and effort was put into the city and it flourished. So much so it became an irresistible target for other conquerors. You can check Chiang Mai's complicated history online, or even better, on its cool museums.

Nowadays Chiang Mai has been largely modernized and expanded organically, without planning. The protective wall is no more, just a replica of the ancient gates are standing. The moat is still preserved. It's when we walked inside the old town that we felt somewhere special. It's full of incredible Buddhist temples, inviting spa resorts, hippy cafes, crazy tattoo parlors, music studios, arts and cooking schools, handcraft markets, diverse museums, international guest houses and hostels packed with people from all the corners of the world. Day and night the city's full of life. For me that's the legacy of a well planned city.

Inevitably it also has lots of problems too, like noise, air and water pollution, illegal drugs and prostitution, homeless and misery. It's far from perfect but I think it's as good as it gets in Thailand. It's a well balanced city.

There are many other reasons to like cities but I'll stop here. Our time in Chiang Mai was memorable, not only for the city itself, so I definitely recommend a visit. And maybe when you're there, you'll also notice how they solved their puzzle and enjoy a different city experience.

Cheers!
Crazy street art everywhere

The remains of one of the city gates

Beautiful and stylish paintings on a male-only temple

Gorgeous temple facades

Green jade floor. Only for men.

The temple's supporters

Madame Toussot style monk statues. Quite freaky.

Enjoying the blues

The new monks in white storming the city

Delicious western food with extra olive oil

The ugly and polluted Ping river

Local flag

Unbelievable temples

Eeer, what?!

Buddha in white style

Mythological painting exhibition

Gentlemen, start your engines!

Black Camenrider!!!

From Laos to Thailand

We cruised through Laos as we decided to stay longer in the Philippines - decisions decisions decisions.

Even though it was a small sample from the country I had a blast in Luang Prabang and in its many cute little streets and in the best night market so far (I would have bought a lot of things there if I could:)). It was also in Luang Prabang that I saw the most volunteering offers since we start traveling - my favorite was The Big Brother Mouse. It was clear: there is still so much to be done in the country, not only with children but also with nature and wildlife. 
We had the opportunity to see part of the work done with elephants in the Elephant Village. The portion we contributed (1h elephant riding) was quite small compared with all possibilities there: from a full day training to become an official elephant rider (aka mahout), to staying over in the village or buying all sort of elephant-type souvenirs. You can always help. The cause is quite noble and riding that 40 years old elephant, I must confess, was something completely unexpected. I never imagined that rough skin, those funny moves and that thick fur. I was quite amazed by the obedience (and cleverness) of our elephant - when the mahout told her to refresh herself, while crossing the river, she did it promptly whole over her and me. It was sort of weird great experience. 


Having movie nights with popcorn or pizza at home it was all we wanted in some evenings these past months. Resting our feet while doing something we enjoy so much. The fact that we have no laptop with us makes it quite hard, but we managed in Luang Prabang, in one of the many cute cafes and restaurants. No pizza, no popcorn just movie and Laos' food, comfortable in the middle of some pillows. Sweet. Almost home. Some extra points to the city.

We slowly moved west into the border with Thailand - literately slow. It took us 3 days and 2 nights to get to Chiang Mai by boat (and 5h van). The Mekong river is beautiful, the landscape is great, it's one hell of a river...but it was so tiring that we don't wish to repeat it any time soon.

We get to northern Thailand safe and sound, tired, restless in a hard mattress room but Chiang Mai was keeping a little nice surprise for us. We got to know that there were friends around the corner - how energizing is that?! A lot! We had dinner dates with Michele and Patricia every night after doing loads of stuff with the daylight (temples, museums, massage course, hunting for postcards, sending  packages home, eating good food, etc.). 
Crazy Blues Singer. Great night!

Our last evening together in town was spent cooking, or learning how to do so in Thai style - it was so yummy! 

  






Sweet cooking partners German couple.

Little warning about mosquito bites in Thailand, I never saw my body reacting that bad - note to self use plenty of repellent day/night/everywhere or pick a good skin/bad blood like Will's :):)

And girls, thanks, it was awesome to be around you! The live music, the crazy tuk-tuk driver, the great restaurant host, the long talks & walks looking for food, the many beers, the street food and the night markets...the happy smiles! Our stay in Chiang Mai was 100% improved because we met you! 


The mainland Southeast Asia circle was about to be closed, but there was still a  unforgettable train trip to happen. Check out this post.