Showing posts with label Thailand. Show all posts

City Love: Chiang Mai

One day Di and I were walking around one of my favorite cities, Lisbon. I was full of joy and excited to be exploring such a cool place. I got the same feeling over and over again in other cities too. And when I realized it, I was struck. It was kind of o special moment. I really like cities. In fact, I love'm!

I don't know many people that share this feeling, the opposite is far more popular. Way too often we listen others expressing their anger and frustration towards their urban surroundings. But I know I'm not alone.

I guess it's because I'm a puzzle solver. Could also be my addiction to SimCity games or the other may around. In any case, I really like to figure out how stuff works, how systems are designed and how to tweak and modify them. That's why I choose to and love to be a software engineer. Cities are exactly that, a wonderfully complex puzzle. The way I see it, cities tries to be the best place as possible for people to live close to each other in community and fulfill some kind of national goal. What sets it apart is that we live in it. We, people, are part of the puzzle. We build them to ourselves after all.

We've spent a few days in Chiang Mai, the biggest and most important city on the north of Thailand. It left a strong positive impression on me. I was constantly observing how they solved the city puzzle. Their solution was ancient and fascinating. This is the start of my personal series of posts dedicated to the coolest cities we visit called "City Love".

The city was planned and constructed on the fertile banks of the river Ping. This made sure that the needs of mobility, sanitation, clean water and food were readily available.
Ancient city planning


It is on a valley surrounded by mountains on the border of Burma, Laos and China. It was naturally a popular commercial route, were merchants and commerce flourished, different cultures mixed, technology and knowledge spread. People gathered.

Back in the day, war and conflict were common so a wall and moat were built to protect the royals, bureaucrats, temples and the rich. Clearly a lot of thought and effort was put into the city and it flourished. So much so it became an irresistible target for other conquerors. You can check Chiang Mai's complicated history online, or even better, on its cool museums.

Nowadays Chiang Mai has been largely modernized and expanded organically, without planning. The protective wall is no more, just a replica of the ancient gates are standing. The moat is still preserved. It's when we walked inside the old town that we felt somewhere special. It's full of incredible Buddhist temples, inviting spa resorts, hippy cafes, crazy tattoo parlors, music studios, arts and cooking schools, handcraft markets, diverse museums, international guest houses and hostels packed with people from all the corners of the world. Day and night the city's full of life. For me that's the legacy of a well planned city.

Inevitably it also has lots of problems too, like noise, air and water pollution, illegal drugs and prostitution, homeless and misery. It's far from perfect but I think it's as good as it gets in Thailand. It's a well balanced city.

There are many other reasons to like cities but I'll stop here. Our time in Chiang Mai was memorable, not only for the city itself, so I definitely recommend a visit. And maybe when you're there, you'll also notice how they solved their puzzle and enjoy a different city experience.

Cheers!
Crazy street art everywhere

The remains of one of the city gates

Beautiful and stylish paintings on a male-only temple

Gorgeous temple facades

Green jade floor. Only for men.

The temple's supporters

Madame Toussot style monk statues. Quite freaky.

Enjoying the blues

The new monks in white storming the city

Delicious western food with extra olive oil

The ugly and polluted Ping river

Local flag

Unbelievable temples

Eeer, what?!

Buddha in white style

Mythological painting exhibition

Gentlemen, start your engines!

Black Camenrider!!!

From Laos to Thailand

We cruised through Laos as we decided to stay longer in the Philippines - decisions decisions decisions.

Even though it was a small sample from the country I had a blast in Luang Prabang and in its many cute little streets and in the best night market so far (I would have bought a lot of things there if I could:)). It was also in Luang Prabang that I saw the most volunteering offers since we start traveling - my favorite was The Big Brother Mouse. It was clear: there is still so much to be done in the country, not only with children but also with nature and wildlife. 
We had the opportunity to see part of the work done with elephants in the Elephant Village. The portion we contributed (1h elephant riding) was quite small compared with all possibilities there: from a full day training to become an official elephant rider (aka mahout), to staying over in the village or buying all sort of elephant-type souvenirs. You can always help. The cause is quite noble and riding that 40 years old elephant, I must confess, was something completely unexpected. I never imagined that rough skin, those funny moves and that thick fur. I was quite amazed by the obedience (and cleverness) of our elephant - when the mahout told her to refresh herself, while crossing the river, she did it promptly whole over her and me. It was sort of weird great experience. 


Having movie nights with popcorn or pizza at home it was all we wanted in some evenings these past months. Resting our feet while doing something we enjoy so much. The fact that we have no laptop with us makes it quite hard, but we managed in Luang Prabang, in one of the many cute cafes and restaurants. No pizza, no popcorn just movie and Laos' food, comfortable in the middle of some pillows. Sweet. Almost home. Some extra points to the city.

We slowly moved west into the border with Thailand - literately slow. It took us 3 days and 2 nights to get to Chiang Mai by boat (and 5h van). The Mekong river is beautiful, the landscape is great, it's one hell of a river...but it was so tiring that we don't wish to repeat it any time soon.

We get to northern Thailand safe and sound, tired, restless in a hard mattress room but Chiang Mai was keeping a little nice surprise for us. We got to know that there were friends around the corner - how energizing is that?! A lot! We had dinner dates with Michele and Patricia every night after doing loads of stuff with the daylight (temples, museums, massage course, hunting for postcards, sending  packages home, eating good food, etc.). 
Crazy Blues Singer. Great night!

Our last evening together in town was spent cooking, or learning how to do so in Thai style - it was so yummy! 

  






Sweet cooking partners German couple.

Little warning about mosquito bites in Thailand, I never saw my body reacting that bad - note to self use plenty of repellent day/night/everywhere or pick a good skin/bad blood like Will's :):)

And girls, thanks, it was awesome to be around you! The live music, the crazy tuk-tuk driver, the great restaurant host, the long talks & walks looking for food, the many beers, the street food and the night markets...the happy smiles! Our stay in Chiang Mai was 100% improved because we met you! 


The mainland Southeast Asia circle was about to be closed, but there was still a  unforgettable train trip to happen. Check out this post.

One childhood dream at a time

Let me be really honest with you: I'm in Thailand thanks to a video game character.
OK, that's totally true but not the whole story. I still had to work my ass off and save money, choose and buy plane tickets, go through a 1000 hotel, hostels to finally pick some reasonable ones. And let's not forget the "delicious" 11 hour flight from Frankfurt to Bangkok on which I experienced for the first time the "8€ fee for premium content" extortion. An easy way to get used to it.
Anyway, let me tell you more about MF inspiration: Street Fighter II - The World Warrior
A video game that needs no introductions. Well, at least if you're a guy from the 80s raised next to a television. (Mom, if you're reading this, I'm talking about that game that I used to play together with my brother every Saturday and Sunday mornings really early in the morning. The "dolls" threw light balls with their hands and there was a green Brazilian gorilla that electrocuted everybody.)

Street Figther and Thailand? Hell yeah I'm talking about the mighty Sagat, the Muay Thai king, a Shadaloo boss. His huge legs do devastating damage. One of his eyes is good, the other is covered by a patch. And his trademark scar across the chest, a painful consequence for fighting against Ryu. Let's not forget his shaved head either.


The challengers had to fly all the way to Thailand and face him usually around a huge statue of a laying Buddha.
Oh, what a challenge! I probably spent an embarrassing amount of money and continues trying to overcome him.

The game had characters from all over the world and their correspondent home countries. You could fight in a fishermen village in the amazon jungle next to a huge "jibóia" snake, in an U.S. jet fighter airbase, in a heavy industry corner somewhere in the long gone communist U.S.S.R. and more.
It got me wondering if that's another reason I'm traveling around the world.

Thailand was one of my favorite scenarios. That impossibly big gold statue with its serene pose and gentle smile. The sun setting behind strange temples in the distance. 

How could a kid not be amazed by such image?! But I think I didn't believe it. I mean, there were also hadoukens and levitating rubber yoga masters. That statue had to be fiction too. So it remained in my head for many years.
Until I Googled it and it was real. It resides inside the Wat Pho temple in Bangkok and it is as big as I was expecting.  What's a bit surreal now is that I have a selfie with it!


OK, the real statue and the one from the game are not identical in shape or location but the general concept is. There are many other awesome lying Buddha statues in Thailand that could also be the one from the game but I can't visit them all.

I'm having a great time here in Thailand. It's a country full of wonders and problems like so many others. But it's special to me because it's a place where childhood dreams are real, where video games also are. My sceptical adulthood is replaced by the innocent child within. And it feels great!

Maybe if I'm lucky I'll find an old sir with a patched eye and a scar across his chest, standing by a Muai Tai gym. If I do, I promises that I'll try to make a selfie with him even if I end up taking a Tiger Uppercut in the face.

Let's go on

Being in Thailand and not getting to see the Thai beaches sounded as not really being in Thailand...so while in Bangkok we decided, let's go a little south: get some proper chilling time, get the SCUBA certification, see the transparent waters, drink good coconut water and honeymooning.

Sounds like a plan! And Ko Tao, literally the "Turtle Island", sounded the perfect place for the diving certification. And that's where we got, to be exact in Sairee Beach.

Will is getting the certification now: around 18m below sea level, diving like a real fish. I tried also but did not fell comfortable to go deep. I guess I'm more snorkeling than diving:) If you get to Ko Tao and you like the under water adventures, check the more than 40 diving schools around here and pick one. By recommendation we went straight to Roctupus and what a fun group they have there! 

There is more than SCUBA around here though...The island is intensively beautiful, colorful boats in turquoise waters, Thai massages available on the beach, some wildness, roughness around, somehow has a peaceful side that allows you to relax (even though the island is full with party-hard people that comes to Ko Tao after the Full Moon party, Ko Phangan's most known beach party, as the name says already, it's held every month when the moon is full:)). Exactly because of that it's easy to meet other backpackers - Canadians, Americans,  British, French and so on - but you also see some families with kids. It's a funny mix. And as a small island, moving around in motorbike and enjoying nature, it's possible, easy and great!

Sairee, the longest sand beach strip of the island, it's about 10min taxi drive away from the pier/beach we got in here, Mae Had Beach. It's beautiful here...





I've been writing this post while moving around: having breakfast, watching people in the street, having my morning walk in the beach. Far from what I see in reality, this is my 180o degree view right now:


More and more a touristic spot Ko Tao attracted along the years many internationals that fell in love for (and felt free in) the smallest island of the Samui islands. Ones are just staying for few months, some with no plans to move out. 

We will go on. Tomorrow is Ko Phangan.

PS: this post was intended to be live on Tuesday, the 10th of February, but the island's internet connection got messed up. Locations and Timing are not accurate anymore.